Daniel Roseberry unveils Schiaparelli’s Autumn/Winter 2026 Haute Couture collection with an audacious vision that redefines the maison’s creative language through innovation, sculptural craftsmanship and unexpected materials.
As Paris Haute Couture Week continues to captivate the fashion world, Schiaparelli has once again positioned itself at the centre of the conversation. Under the creative direction of Daniel Roseberry, the French maison presented its Autumn/Winter 2026 Haute Couture collection, titled The Call of the Void, a striking exploration of experimentation that challenges convention while reinforcing the house’s reputation as one of the industry’s most fearless innovators.
Rather than repeating the formula behind his previous successes, Roseberry chose to embrace uncertainty. In his show notes, the American designer admitted that attempting to recreate the creative process of an earlier collection only limited his imagination. Instead, he allowed instinct, curiosity and unpredictability to guide the development of a collection that pushes Schiaparelli into entirely new territory.
The result is a bold reinterpretation of Haute Couture, where traditional luxury fabrics make way for unconventional materials more commonly associated with industrial design than Parisian ateliers. Latex, silicone and sculpted layers of baked paint replaced classic silks and satins, transforming garments into wearable works of art that blur the boundaries between fashion, sculpture and contemporary design.
Roseberry’s latest vision also reimagines some of Schiaparelli’s most recognisable house codes. One of the most unexpected twists comes through the iconic tailored jacket, traditionally one of the maison’s defining garments. Instead of serving as the focal point of a look, it is repositioned as an accessory, layered over silhouettes to complement rather than dominate the styling. The subtle shift completely transforms the role of one of the brand’s most established signatures.
The runway became a showcase of surreal craftsmanship and technical innovation. Sculptural silicone bustiers in soft milky blue appeared alongside dramatic latex tentacles emerging from the shoulders of tailored garments, creating silhouettes that felt simultaneously organic and futuristic. Elsewhere, dresses constructed from delicate crinoline tubes appeared almost weightless, introducing movement and volume while maintaining an extraordinary sense of lightness.
Colour played a fundamental role in shaping the atmosphere of the collection. Drawing inspiration from the mysterious beauty of underwater ecosystems, Roseberry developed a palette featuring lobster pink, vibrant tangerine, pale mint and deep glossy black, accented throughout with Schiaparelli’s unmistakable gold detailing. The combination evoked coral reefs, marine life and otherworldly landscapes, reinforcing the collection’s dreamlike narrative.
Accessories continued the exploration of surrealism that has become synonymous with Roseberry’s work. Among the standout pieces was The Bubble, a newly introduced shoe featuring an alien-inspired metallic structure wrapped in a silicone sleeve. The futuristic design perfectly encapsulated the spirit of the collection, balancing artistic experimentation with technical precision while expanding the maison’s distinctive visual identity.
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