Tina Barney takes center stage in Dior’s daring spring campaign, challenging the male gaze with intimate portraits and avant-garde monochromatic styles.
Maria Grazia Chiuri‘s spring runway show for Dior focused on challenging the male gaze, featuring an immersive stage by Italian artist Elena Bellantoni that illuminated feminist messages. For the advertising campaign, Chiuri once again turned to a female creator, the American photographer Tina Barney.
Known for her detailed portraits of the affluent environment, Barney captured models Rosanna Ovalles, Honey Ordonez, Mauve Dupuy, and Alice McGrath in seemingly unposed moments, contrasting with the stereotypically sexualized attitudes often seen in many fashion campaigns.
The images depict them standing or sitting in a luxurious apartment with deep red walls, in harmony with the opulent residences where Barney typically finds her subjects. Represented by the Kasmin gallery in New York City, the photographer has previously worked on campaigns for brands such as Max Mara, Thom Browne, and Vaquera. Speaking last September, Chiuri emphasized the importance of developing a critical perspective at a time when social media platforms are inundated with a torrent of images. “As a creative director, someone who also works with images, because I am also part of this industry, the risk is that I reproduce stereotypical ideas,” she added. “It is also my responsibility.”
The campaign highlights mostly monochromatic looks, including coats and apron dresses adorned with pagan-style solar symbols and knitwear with a touch of gothic girl. Accessories include the Dior Toujours bag in a new variation of wrinkled leather with an oversized cannage pattern, Diorebel lace-up boots, and Adiorable shoes with gladiator-style straps.
Margot Populaire was in charge of the creative direction of the campaign, which was launched in print on Tuesday. Styling was done by Elin Svahn, with Peter Philips handling the makeup and Damien Boissinot in charge of hairstyling.
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