Hedi Slimane could leave Celine after contract expiration with LVMH

According to reports, Hedi Slimane could leave Celine during contract negotiations, which could affect the brand’s future.

The designer’s six-year contract with the house expired earlier this year, and according to Business of Fashion reports, Hedi Slimane is in the midst of negotiations with LVMH that could result in his departure as Creative Director of Celine, according to sources familiar with the matter.

Slimane took over the leadership of Celine in 2018 following Phoebe Philo’s resignation. Under his direction, the brand experienced significant expansion, venturing into the men’s market, haute couture, perfumes, and beauty. The designer infused the house with his characteristic all-black, tailored aesthetic, a hallmark he perfected throughout his career at Dior and Yves Saint Laurent.

Despite Celine’s initial sales decline during Slimane’s tenure, consumers seem to have embraced the new aesthetic approach, moving away from Philo’s minimalist trends. According to BoF reports, Celine’s revenues exceeded $2.1 billion in 2023, marking a record for the brand.

Slimane’s six-year contract with LVMH came to an end in early 2024, and although negotiations are ongoing, no official announcement has been made regarding his continuation in the role.

Reportedly, Slimane is demanding a higher-than-average salary, even for a designer of his caliber, as well as royalties on all brand products, from advertising campaigns to perfume formulas. Additionally, Slimane exercises total creative control over Celine, which, while contributing to the brand’s success, has also resulted in considerable investments in projects that are often abandoned at advanced stages.

Other reports indicate that LVMH is interviewing other designers for the position. It is worth noting that the conglomerate has yet to fill the role of Creative Director of Givenchy following Matthew M. Williams’ departure at the end of 2023, suggesting that losing another prominent designer could pose a risk for LVMH.