Anthony Vaccarello appears set to leave Saint Laurent after a decade as creative director, closing a chapter defined by success, cinema and an unmistakable identity.
The fashion industry could be about to bid farewell to one of its longest-running creative tenures of recent years. Anthony Vaccarello is reportedly preparing to leave Saint Laurent after ten years at the helm of the French maison, making his Spring/Summer 2027 collection, presented in Paris on 29 September, what appears to have been his final show for the house.
Although Saint Laurent has yet to officially confirm the designer’s departure, speculation surrounding his future began circulating in early September and intensified considerably in the days leading up to the presentation. Several industry sources suggest that Vaccarello will step down following this season, bringing to a close a decade that proved pivotal both creatively and commercially.
The designer joined Saint Laurent in April 2016, following the departure of Hedi Slimane. Since then, Vaccarello has established an instantly recognisable visual language without abandoning some of the house’s historic codes. Sharp tailoring, narrow silhouettes, leather, eveningwear and a dark, sophisticated sensuality ultimately came to define his vision.
His influence was not limited to the collections alone. During his tenure, Saint Laurent significantly expanded its cultural presence, particularly with the creation of Saint Laurent Productions in 2023, a film production division that allowed the house to become directly involved in producing films. The project opened up a new creative territory for Vaccarello and strengthened the relationship between fashion, cinema and culture that he had developed throughout his time at the maison.
All eyes, however, were on Paris for the presentation of Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2027. What might initially have been viewed as another show on the fashion calendar ultimately took on the atmosphere of a possible farewell.
Vaccarello chose not to hold his customary conversation with journalists after the show. Instead, he sent dark purple flowers accompanied by a handwritten note in which he described the collection as deeply personal and emotional. The designer explained that he had carried the idea with him for a long time and finally felt ready to present it.
On the catwalk, gold became one of the collection’s defining elements. It appeared across trench coats, pencil skirts, safari jackets, cocktail dresses and a range of tailored pieces. Organza, lace, chiffon, brocade, jacquard, metallic cotton and latex helped shape a collection in which shine seemed to take on a particular significance.
The mood of the show shifted during its final moments with a succession of black looks, another defining code of the Saint Laurent universe. Charlotte Gainsbourg then performed for the guests before Vaccarello emerged to receive a standing ovation from the audience.
One of the most talked-about gestures came moments later. The designer walked towards the front row and handed his five-year-old son, Luca, an object that appeared to be a set of keys. His team later clarified that it was a good-luck charm, although the scene inevitably reinforced the feeling that those in attendance may have been witnessing the end of an era.
