Chemena Kamali is among the names being linked to Saint Laurent amid speculation that Anthony Vaccarello could leave after a decade at the helm of the maison.
The ongoing reshuffle of creative directors could be about to deliver another unexpected chapter. Chemena Kamali, currently creative director of Chloé, is beginning to emerge in industry conversations as a potential candidate to take over at Saint Laurent should Anthony Vaccarello’s rumoured departure ultimately materialise. For now, however, neither move has been officially confirmed.
Neither Saint Laurent and Kering, nor Chloé and Richemont have announced any changes to their respective creative leadership teams. The reports therefore remain firmly in the realm of speculation. Nevertheless, the timing of the two sets of rumours has pushed Kamali’s name into the spotlight as Paris Fashion Week draws closer.
The first reports suggesting a possible Vaccarello departure began circulating in August. At around the same time, speculation emerged that Kamali could leave Chloé less than three years after officially taking the creative reins at the French house.
There is an important professional connection behind the theory linking the two potential moves. Before returning to Chloé as creative director in 2023, the German designer spent several years working at Saint Laurent. From 2016, she served as women’s ready-to-wear design director within Anthony Vaccarello’s team.
That previous knowledge of Saint Laurent’s codes, inner workings and identity makes her a particularly intriguing candidate for those attempting to anticipate Kering’s next move.
Her appointment at Chloé also represented a homecoming. Kamali had previously worked at the maison during the Phoebe Philo era and later under Clare Waight Keller. That familiarity with the house’s history allowed her to establish a recognisable creative direction relatively quickly after taking charge.
Since then, Chemena Kamali has revived Chloé’s romantic, bohemian spirit, combining flowing dresses, sheer fabrics, ruffles and references to different eras of the house. She has also helped bring back the Paddington bag, one of the brand’s biggest commercial icons of the 2000s.
Given the impact of her current tenure, reports of a potential departure have come as a surprise. Chloé has not announced that Kamali is preparing to leave her position and, until any official confirmation emerges, she remains the house’s creative director.
The situation surrounding Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent is similarly uncertain. The designer took over the creative direction of the house in 2016 following Hedi Slimane’s departure and has now completed a decade at the helm of the maison.
During that time, he has developed an instantly recognisable visual identity, establishing a sensual, dark and sophisticated interpretation of Yves Saint Laurent’s codes. At the same time, the brand has significantly expanded its scale within the Kering group.
Vaccarello has also extended his influence beyond the runway. The creation of Saint Laurent Productions allowed the company to move directly into film production, strengthening a relationship with cinema that has become an increasingly important part of his creative universe. Some reports have suggested that the designer could choose to devote more attention to this area if he ultimately decides to step away from fashion.
There are, however, important reasons to treat any potential succession with caution. Anthony Vaccarello continues to be officially listed as Saint Laurent’s artistic director, while the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode still credits him in that role ahead of the house’s scheduled show on 29 September 2026. Saint Laurent also continues to release material from its Autumn 2026 collection under his creative direction.
For now, therefore, there is no official indication that a change at the top of Saint Laurent is imminent.
