Acne Studios’ Spring 2026 collection challenges naked dressing with lace, leather and androgynous silhouettes, showcased in a striking Gothic Parisian setting.
The Acne Studios runway in Paris surprised with a proposal that oscillates between delicate lingerie and the strength of reimagined menswear. Under the creative direction of Jonny Johansson, the Swedish brand delivered an aesthetic journey marked by sensuality, rebellion and bold material experimentation.
The show took place at the Collège des Bernardins, a 13th-century Gothic building transformed into a venue bathed in tobacco tones, evoking the interior of a luxurious cigar box. In that setting, Johansson presented his vision of a spring collection that questions the naked dressing trend. “I saw a lot of transparency, and I was wondering why it was there — are we getting completely naked? It’s kind of puzzling, like people getting undressed. I felt I had to resist it, or had to play with it,” explained the designer.
The collection combined lace dresses with hourglass silhouettes and corsetry, alongside patinated leather jackets, flannel shirts and biker styles that reinforced a masculine and defiant edge. Crinkled cotton suits and elongated cowboy boots added a rockabilly twist, while nude lace bustier tops emerged as a key piece, especially when paired with the house’s signature jeans, this season coated in plastic or cracked paint.
The show was accompanied by a soundtrack created by Swedish singer Robyn, whose energy captured the duality of the proposal: delicacy and power in a single gesture.
With this collection, Acne Studios confirms its ability to set trends while maintaining its experimental spirit, turning nudity into an aesthetic reflection rather than a superficial provocation.
