“I Want To Fuck You Like An Animal” by Nine Inch Nails hadn’t even started when the crowd was left speechless by the new Prada Spring Menswear 2024 collection.
Along the industrial mesh steel runway, we witnessed looks such as a fringed white shirt paired with a black schoolboy shorts, a tailored silhouette with broad shoulders reinforced by (removable) pads, a cinched waist, elongated jacket skirts and sleeves.
Mrs. Prada later said, “Now, at this moment, we have to inject fantasy again, ideas.” Together, she and Raf Simons dressed their Spring 2024 men in suits that echoed the relationship between the rigid mesh of the runway and the shimmering plasma that sprouted from it and through it. Simons stated that this silhouette was meant to echo the paradigm of heroically enhanced tailoring from the 1940s.
“When we think about the body, we also think about the idea of the inside and the outside, about how a body is not still. Very often in tailoring, it ends up being a very architectural construction, and the body is partially restricted,” Simons said.
In this runway show, we witnessed floral ruffled shirts, traditional shirts transforming into full-length coats, denim jeans, work vests with multiple functional pockets, fine-gauge navy knit shirts, faux fur vests, and more.
The shape of the three-button Beuys jacket transformed from a tailored piece into something resembling a sail parka, cut in technical nylon and then sturdy leather. Towards the end, pockets and flowers melded and merged into a shirt; the pockets were constructed within the shirt, and flowers, as painted resin embellishments, sprouted from them.
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