Giovanni Giannoni/WWD
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Roberto Cavalli Autumn 2025: A journey to Ancient Pompeii

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The fourth day of Milan Fashion Week concluded with the presentation from the Italian brand.

For Roberto Cavalli‘s latest collection, Fausto Puglisi drew inspiration from the tones of Pompeii, dressing his models in luxurious red and gold devoré velvet, as they strutted down a runway reminiscent of black volcanic sand.

The timing couldn’t have been more perfect. His collection, inspired by the ancient city, was unveiled just one day after the discovery of frescoes in a dining room at the archaeological site near Naples, depicting Dionysus, the god of wine and pleasure.

But perhaps it wasn’t simply a coincidence. Puglisi, a lover of culture, has spent years admiring the architectural details of his native Sicily and beyond, exploring churches, museums, and archaeological sites, always capturing images of coloured marbles that inspire him. I remember the first time I went to Pompeii with my parents, and I still carry it in my heart. It’s a magical place, and incredibly modern at the same time, said the designer, pointing to a dark red fresco on his moodboard.

To take this aesthetic even further, Puglisi collaborated with an artist to recreate a blue-green garden fresco from the site, translating these colours into slip dresses with black lace, embroidered gowns with flowers and vines, and golden snake-shaped details on the handbags.

Pompeii-inspired tones dominated the runway: deep reds and greys in velvet dresses, coats in fiery hues that evoked lava, and touches of faux leopard print. These pieces, along with large fur coats, paid homage to the house’s iconic passion for animal prints and the exotic beasts the Romans used in their hunting games.

Golden details also played a key role: feather straps on short dresses and gold chokers on black gowns that appeared to be made of gold leaf. Meanwhile, the oversized sequins on long-sleeved mini dresses sparkled like ancient mosaics.

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