Sabato De Sarno takes over the creative direction of Icicle and will present his first collection in 2027 as the Chinese brand accelerates its international expansion.
Sabato De Sarno has found his next destination in fashion. The Italian designer has been appointed creative director of Icicle, the Shanghai-founded Chinese brand seeking to strengthen its international presence after receiving a minority investment from Kering just five months ago. The move brings together the experience of Gucci’s former creative director with a company aspiring to establish itself as a new global force in contemporary luxury.
De Sarno had remained away from a major creative leadership role since leaving Gucci in February 2025, following approximately two years at the helm of the Italian house. During his tenure, he steered the brand towards a cleaner, more minimalist aesthetic, a visual language that now shares certain similarities with Icicle’s philosophy.
In his new role, the designer will oversee the brand’s women’s and men’s ready-to-wear, accessories and eyewear collections. His highly anticipated debut is scheduled for the Autumn 2027 season, when he will unveil the first collection developed under his creative direction.
The Italian designer’s arrival will not, however, result in a complete overhaul of the existing studio. Bénédicte Laloux, who has been part of the Paris-based team since 2013 and artistic director of womenswear since 2019, will remain as design director of the women’s show collection, working under De Sarno’s supervision.
Founded in Shanghai in 1997 by Ye Shouzeng and Shawna Tao, Icicle currently operates more than 200 stores across China and is part of ICCF Group, which also owns Carven. Its identity has been built around the concept of the natural way, a philosophy centred on minimalist design, natural materials and fabrics used in their original shades or treated with organic pigments.
“Since Icicle was founded in 1997, our ambition has always been to reconnect people with nature through enduring fashion,” explained Ye Shouzeng, the company’s chief executive officer and co-founder. For the executive, bringing together international creative talent with the company’s cultural roots and industrial strength in China will be fundamental to its next chapter.
Sabato De Sarno himself believes there is a natural connection between his own interests and the brand’s values. “I’ve always been fascinated by design beyond the final product, from the origins of raw materials to the craftsmanship that shapes them,” he said. The designer also highlighted Icicle’s exploration of harmony between people and nature, an idea he considers particularly relevant today.
His appointment also marks a new chapter in a career built at some of Italy’s most important fashion houses. Born near Naples in 1983, he began his professional career at Prada in 2003, before moving to Dolce & Gabbana and later joining Valentino in 2009, where he gradually took on greater responsibilities before becoming fashion director overseeing both the men’s and women’s collections. Gucci subsequently gave him his first major international creative director role.
The appointment comes at a decisive moment for Icicle. The brand recently made its debut on the official Paris Fashion Week calendar and is developing its wholesale business while considering further international openings. It currently operates two boutiques in Paris as well as a shop-in-shop at Le Bon Marché, while London and Milan are among the cities being considered for future locations.
In addition, although approximately 90 per cent of its current business comes from ready-to-wear, the company sees significant growth potential in handbags, footwear and accessories.
