This Dries Van Noten show took place in the distinguished district 17, and its Spring 2024 collection aims to explore other forms of expression apart from urban fashion.
“We wanted to study elegance. To make it very masculine. So we asked ourselves, what is masculinity now? And how can we make elegance also young and interesting for the youth?… I think urban clothing is one thing, and it’s fantastic, but I also believe that people want more ways to dress to express who they are and enjoy,” he said.
This mindset gave rise to a collection that mixed brown and black tones. Looks like jackets paired with sequined shorts, and herringbone wool in a magnificent tailored coat with raglan shoulders contained camel and black zig-zags.
Trench pants with trench skirts were counterpoints to deep V-cut fabrics with matching wrap-around skirts: modern twin sets. Rough shantung silks, mesh linen fabrics, coated linen outerwear, knitted velvets, and optically enveloping and subtle prints provided both visual and tactile textures.
Mixing a bronze shirt and coat with golden sequined shorts, or combining eggplant shorts with a mustard bomber jacket, was both unlikely and evidently effective. The wavy stitching on those dyed eggplant shorts and a lining jacket echoed the layered “onion” print on other garments.
Some muslin tops were transparent, some hemlines of shorts and combat pants were frayed and unfinished, and the knitted velvet sweater featured a grid of torn perforations on the chest.
All in all, this was a collection that invited experimentation.
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