The new Spring 2024 Menswear collection from Dolce & Gabbana can be defined with one word: STYLE.
Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce are in soul-searching mode. Concepts of identity and leaving a lasting and recognizable legacy; the permanence or impermanence of trends: these are what they continue to ponder.
The show invitation arrived in a black envelope that contained a metal replica of a credit card, along with a booklet of collection images. The word STYLE was printed in uppercase on its first page.
“The credit card is an indicator, a symbol of identity. You are its sole owner, it’s about being who you are. Style is also about having a strong identity, solid foundations,” explained Stefano. “‘Style’ is quite different from ‘fashion.’ So, we’ve tried to do something new, but within the codes of our own style, keeping it firm and recognizable while evolving,” Domenico chimed in.
But after this collection, they shouldn’t be afraid of not leaving a legacy. Men’s clothing has always been an expressive exercise for them, and for spring, they dug from their repertoire a series of signifiers that were represented in renewed and simplified interpretations. The list included a sleeveless T-shirt, the black color to which we are dedicated, the coppola hat, the rosary, lace, transparency, Sicily, and more. “But above all, it’s the cut and how our tailoring is constructed,” they explained.
The silhouette was slim, occasionally more spacious, but still soft and fluid. The colors were limited to a crisp palette of black, white, caramel, gray, and dark brown. Prints were absent, except for polka dots on a sheer chiffon blouse with a bow. Sensual transparencies, organza flowers, sleeveless T-shirts reinterpreted as bustiers, and fitted T-shirts were worn with high-waisted fluid trousers.
“A garment has to fit perfectly on a real body; it doesn’t have to be just modern or cool,” they said. “That’s why the discipline of construction is so important to us.”
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