The new creative direction at Chanel takes shape in Biarritz, where Matthieu Blazy reimagines the Cruise collection through freedom, colour and the power of the bag.
The arrival of Matthieu Blazy at Chanel marks a pivotal moment for the house, and his debut Cruise collection confirms a clear shift in energy. Presented in Biarritz, the birthplace of Gabrielle Chanel’s early couture vision, the show unfolded as a dialogue between heritage, movement and a distinctly modern sense of play. Yet beyond the silhouettes and setting, one element dominated the narrative: the Chanel bag.
From oversized totes to bold interpretations of the iconic CC logo, accessories took centre stage, reinforcing their role as both functional objects and cultural symbols. In a season where luxury continues to merge practicality with statement design, Blazy places the bag at the heart of the conversation, transforming it into the defining piece of the collection.
Set against the coastal backdrop of Biarritz, the show drew inspiration from the city’s free-spirited lifestyle. The location was not incidental. It reflects a place where fashion, workwear and leisure coexist, a concept that Blazy explores through garments that move effortlessly between structure and fluidity. In his own words, the collection captures a space where “function and fiction” meet, creating a visual language rooted in contrast.
Titled “SOUS LE SALON LA PLAGE”, the show pays homage to Chanel’s origins while reinterpreting them for a contemporary audience. References to the house’s first black dress sit alongside elements drawn from French workwear, while the imagined narrative of the “mermaid” introduces a more dreamlike dimension. The result is a collection that feels both grounded and escapist, anchored in history but driven by reinvention.
Visually, the collection is defined by a dynamic interplay of colour and texture. Basque stripes, vibrant contrasts and beach-inspired accessories inject a sense of spontaneity, while tailored skirts, structured dresses and the house’s signature tweed maintain a connection to classic Chanel codes. This balance between tradition and experimentation is where Blazy’s vision becomes most evident.
The casting further reinforces the contemporary tone of the show. Models such as Alex Consani and Mona Tougaard, alongside new brand ambassador Bhavitha Mandava, bring a fresh perspective to the runway, aligning the collection with a new generation of fashion voices. Their presence reflects a broader strategy: positioning Chanel within a cultural landscape that values diversity, individuality and global influence.
At its core, the collection explores the idea of freedom in dressing. Silhouettes are designed to move, to adapt, to exist beyond rigid categories. This fluidity is mirrored in the styling, where pieces transition seamlessly from daywear to resort glamour, blurring the boundaries between everyday life and escapism. The aesthetic sits somewhere between Art Deco elegance and relaxed seaside dressing, creating a new definition of modern luxury.
The emphasis on accessories, particularly the oversized tote bags, signals a strategic focus for the house. In a market where accessories drive both desirability and commercial success, Blazy’s approach feels deliberate. These pieces are not simply additions to the look; they are central to its identity, designed to be both aspirational and practical.
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