Daniel Roseberry weaves a romantic gothic dream for Schiaparelli’s autumn 2023 haute couture collection, merging a dark and supernatural aesthetic with a reverential sense of luxury.
With a front row of famous faces, such as Cardi B, Tracee Ellis Ross, Amina Muaddi, Nicky Hilton, Gwendoline Christie, Xenia Adonts, as well as Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu from “Emily in Paris,” joining Christine Centenera, editor-in-chief of Vogue Australia, Anna Dello Russo, editor-at-large of Vogue Japan, and Vittoria Marisa Schiaparelli Berenson, granddaughter of the house’s founder, Elsa Schiaparelli, the collection was showcased by iconic models like Magdalena Frąckowiak and Tanya Dziahileva. Known for his surrealist perspective, Roseberry continues to blur the lines between fashion and art, transforming fabric into masterpieces.
The autumn 2023 collection harmonizes clever and creative tailoring, highly ornate golden pieces, and sculptural silhouettes, presenting an assembly of ephemeral garments. Golden ear belts secure ornately embellished coats, while golden leaves rest on a graceful neckline, juxtaposed with its furry version in the same snowy hue. Cathedral-style dresses evoke a sacred sense of glamour, thanks to a dramatically arched neckline that protrudes from the chest. Meanwhile, heavily ruffled arms rival feathered edges, resulting in a truly striking look. Abundantly draped fabric transforms into a combination of a top and scarf, giving way to vintage-inspired corsets and hip-accentuating skirts.
Tightly laced bodices make multiple appearances, while sheer black corsets contrast with wide-legged trousers casually cinched at the waist. Collared blazers rise so high they almost become hoods, appearing as if taken straight from the Volturi of “Twilight,” effortlessly mimicking the everyday attire of a vampire. A weighty golden belt joins a large, regal button, emphasizing Roseberry’s “more is more” approach. Dresses reflect stained-glass window mosaics, while childhood toys like slinkies make their way onto the cuffs. Elsewhere, fabric pleats remind us of mornings wrapped in blankets, while splashes of color elevate the slightly dreamy ensemble. Models are covered in body paint, while giant golden faunas offer modesty, contrasting with the otherworldly look.
