For Dior’s Autumn/Winter 2023 Haute Couture collection, creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri drew inspiration from “apparent simplicity” and ancient garments. Here are the key highlights pointed out by British Vogue fashion critic Anders Christian Madsen about the show that took place in the gardens of the Musée Rodin in Paris.
Inspired by a quote from Christian Dior
On Maria Grazia Chiuri’s mood board was a quote from Christian Dior that said, “My dresses are connected with the idea of ancient garments. I keep an apparent simplicity.” What he meant by “apparent simplicity” can be translated into the season’s fashion buzzword: “quiet luxury” – something that appears simple in its expression but is created with the finest materials and craftsmanship.
Applied to the unique, handmade creations that define Haute Couture, quiet luxury takes on a new meaning. While that term wasn’t on Chiuri’s mood board, her approach to this season’s Dior Haute Couture collection spoke of a spirit of discreet glamour. “This is what I personally like. I appreciate other designers who approach a sense of effect, but for me, ‘apparent simplicity’ is the best result I can achieve,” she said during a presentation.
The silhouette had its roots in ancient times
Inspired by the connection Christian Dior established between simplicity and ancient garments, Chiuri decided to explore the relationship between simple ancient garments like the peplos and the tunic versus a modernist idea of simplicity. “I have a different background from Monsieur Dior, so I give ancient times an interpretation that is probably closer to my own experience,” she said, referring to her Roman roots. She expressed it in a collection that transformed the language of the oldest and most essential attire in world history into extremely elaborate Haute Couture, whose microscopic and cutting-edge techniques and craftsmanship no runway or images can do justice to. Essentially, you would have to purchase it (or have a preview) to fully appreciate the effect.
The secret lay in the details
Chiuri approached her “apparent simplicity” with an intricacy that only Haute Couture can afford. “To me, Haute Couture is a territory where you can take your time. And the clientele looking for Haute Couture knows that they are different garments. They are more timeless,” she said. Remaining true to an ancient silhouette infused with modernism, she created layers and dresses crafted from the finest and most delicate cream-colored wool fabric, dresses with cream silk fringe so luxurious they appeared like leather, and silk dresses fashioned with silk shantung lace and needlework or guipure lace and silk braids with beads. Other decoration-focused exercises included a georgette crepe dress covered in pearl embroidery. “It’s an idea of something natural. It doesn’t feel like an exaggerated embroidery.”
Chiuri advocated for wardrobe durability
Whether we call it “apparent simplicity” or “quiet luxury,” it’s not a new phenomenon for Chiuri. From day one at Dior, she has remained faithful to a realistic vision of Haute Couture, which is less about experimentation and theatricality and more about creating a viable proposition for the customer. And what about the industry trend of turning discretion into fashion? “Fashion moved so fast because the world moved so fast. There’s a big issue with fast fashion and what we consume, so it’s credible that people have become more sensitive. It means thinking about what you buy: quality and keeping it for a long time. I’ve always thought this way. I really like having a wardrobe that is mine. I don’t change. It’s my style. And it’s my way of seeing fashion. But that’s different for every person. I don’t think we can find just one way. We are all different.”
Chiuri collaborated with artist Marta Roberti
True to tradition, the Dior show was framed by an artistic collaboration. This season, the walls of the tent in the Musée Rodin garden, where Chiuri’s Haute Couture shows are held, were lined with new works by Italian illustrator Marta Roberti. Her primal drawings of goddesses transforming into animals underscored the collection’s ancient connections and referenced Chiuri’s philosophy of Haute Couture as an expression that bridges garments and the human form. “With Haute Couture, the goal is to create garments that become an impression of your body. Every time, for each client, you have to start anew. And it’s important that you keep these garments for a long time,” she said.
