Helmut Lang’s FW 24 collection blends protection and style with adaptable garments and innovative details, inspiring individual identity.
Helmut Lang‘s Autumn/Winter 2024 collection, designed by Peter Do in his second runway presentation for the brand, engages in a dialogue between protection and projection, commenting on the relationship between how we live and how we choose to dress. This collection features a range of hyper-adaptable garments, footwear, and accessories. Designed to offer mega-protection while projecting individual identity to the world, these pieces are grounded in everyday functionality, offering endless combinations for the people of New York.
Among the 50 looks, the introduction of a newly developed silk bubble fabric stands out, crafted into bulletproof vests, bomber jackets, and trousers, echoing the collection’s theme of protection. The collection also explores the hybrid suit, a casual and conscious design featuring suit wool at the front and ponte jersey at the back.
The collection integrates the concept of the expandable suitcase into cashmere wool sweaters, hoodies, and trousers through a system of zippers, allowing garments to adapt in shape, softening, protecting, wrapping, expanding, compressing, revealing, and introducing an element of drama. This transformative approach extends to structured details contouring the body, vintage wool suits, shirts, knits, and sweat materials, offering varied levels of silhouette definition from zoot suits to second-skin fits.
Adding a vibrant cultural tribute, iconic red-white-blue Hong Kong bag prints are mismatched on denim, woven leather pants, suits, skirts, and shirts, in a variety of materials from jacquard knit to hand-woven leather and printed silk. The collection also showcases oversized double-faced wool coats and shiny quilted nylon coats for mega-protection, as well as viscose hole dresses and suits inspired by perforated construction tarps. The exploration of form and function in the collection extends to silk blouses with convertible design features, astronaut-inspired quilted knitwear, and the use of firefighter safety orange.
Accessories play a critical role, with a variety of bags and shoes designed for everyday use, from belt bags and neck pillows to waterproof hoods and bags of different sizes, alongside footwear ranging from practical options for everyday wear to galvanized and armored designs.
